Garlic – Planting to Harvest #shorts



✅ Consider planting varieties that are adapted to your climate. Hard neck: cool/cold regions and soft neck garlic for temperate/warm climates. If you’re in a warm climate you can plant garlic through January just make sure they’re pre-chilled for at least 6 weeks prior to planting. Garlic requires at least 45 days of chilling period (vernalization), below 40-45 F in order to develop robust bulbs and divide into cloves. ✅ Plant in full sun (6+ hours) in fertile and well-drained soil. Make sure to get your cloves planted at least 2-3 weeks before your first autumn frost to allow roots to establish before going into winter dormancy. I amended the soil worm castings which improved soil structure as well as adding essential nutrients, trace elements, and beneficial microorganisms. ✅ Keep the papery husk on the cloves, which can prevent them from direct contact with moisture and rot. Plant the big cloves and use the small ones for eating. Big cloves will result in larger-sized cloven bulbs. ✅ Plant cloves with the pointy end up and blunt side down. Bury each clove 2” deep and 6” apart. You can plant them deeper in cold climates (4” deep). Rows spaced 12” apart. ✅ Water after planting unless you’re expecting rain. Place a 2-4” layer of mulch to insulate the cloves and suppress weeds. ✳️It will take 7-9 months from planting to harvest depending on climate and variety. In spring: Feed the soil with a high-nitrogen fertilizer by mid-May, or before the bulbs start to swell. In this video, I used Vitality worm casting extract and worm castings on one of the raised beds (you can use either of them). A handful of worm castings can be applied between two plants or broadcasted down the row. Water after application to wash nutrients down to the root zone. Avoid high nitrogen fertilizer after May which will result in excess foliage at the expense of bulb growth. If grown in containers, it’s a good idea to fertilize every 2-3 weeks starting in early spring (March/April) as nutrients leach out. If you’re using worm castings, nutrients are usually retained for longer periods. ✅ Stop watering when the leaves start to die back as bulbs mature or two weeks before harvest. Garlic is ready to harvest when the lower leaves start to turn yellow or brown. ✅If you’re growing hard-neck garlic, remember to remove these tasty scapes. They have a mild garlic flavor! Harvesting Garlic: 1. Wait until the bottom 2-3 leaves are tan or yellow, (about ⅓ to ½ of the leaves). Garlic will grow 6-9 leaves that wrap around the bulbs forming an outer papery layer. 2. Lift the bulb with a shovel or garden fork a few inches away from stalks or carefully pull if soil is loose. 3. Do not wash or rinse the bulbs, this can lead to rot/mold and can slow down the curing process. 4. They should be dried or cured for 2-3 weeks for long-term storage. Find a dry area with good ventilation. Place bulbs on a single layer on a drying rack, wooden table, or cardboard. You can hang the bulbs as well. Keep them away from sunlight, as it can alter the beneficial constituents and flavor. 5. After curing, gently remove dirt and the outer layer of the paper wrapper if dirty. Trim roots to 1/4 to 1/2” and stalk about an inch or two above the bulbs. 6. Cured garlic can last between 3 to 9 months, sometimes up to 12 months, depending on the environment. Soft neck garlic generally stores longer than hard neck types which lasts between 3-7 months. 7. Store in a cool and well-ventilated area away from direct light/sunlight. We usually store our garlic in the basement with a relative humidity of 50-60% and temperatures between 55-65 F in the fall and winter months. We place the garlic bulbs in wicker baskets and also reuse produce mesh bags (hung up), and egg cartons. If you’d like to give @vermisterra worm casting products a try, make sure to use code learntogrow for a savings of 10% and free shipping in the US. Thank you! #shorts #garlic #harvest #growfood #organicgardening #vegetablegarden

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